Sauce brune is one of the basic French sauces (gravies). It's closely related to
sauce espagnole and
sauce demi-glace. In the past I've been using an English
recipe for sauce demi-glace, from “Penguin Cordon Bleu Cookery” by Rosemary Hume
and Muriel Downes, in fact quite reputed cooks, but their recipe is subtitled “brown
sauce” (i.e.
sauce brune) and by comparison with the French recipes it looks
rather primitive.
The following recipe comes from “La cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange”, who spends
two and a half pages describing in minute detail all the points to pay attention to. Unlike
the British recipes, the French include meat.
Ingredients
Quantities for one litre of finished sauce:
quantity |
|
ingredient |
|
step |
80-100 g |
|
butter |
|
1 |
100 g carrots |
|
|
|
1 |
100 g |
|
onion |
|
1 |
100 g |
|
lean belly pork (“lard maigre”) |
|
1 |
4-5 stems |
|
parsley, without leaves |
|
1 |
2 stems |
|
thyme |
|
1 |
1 |
|
small bay leaf |
|
1 |
50-60 g |
|
flour |
|
2 |
300 ml |
|
good white wine |
|
3 |
1.5 l |
|
stock |
|
3 |
40 g |
|
tomato paste |
|
3 |
50 g |
|
mushroom peelings |
|
4 |
40 ml |
|
madeira wine |
|
9 |
Preparation
-
Finely chop the carrots, onion, pork and add the herbs (the result is called
mirepoix) and fry in the butter over low heat until they start to brown, about 10
minutes.
-
Stir in the flour and brown gently over a period of 12 to 15 minutes. The flour
shouldn't get too brown. Stir frequently to avoid any excessive browning.
-
Reserve 200 ml of the stock for later. Gradually add the rest, along with the wine, to
the flour and mirepoix mixture, stirring to mix in the flour. Add the tomato paste.
-
Bring to the boil and add the mushroom peelings.
-
Lower the heat and boil gently in an open pot for an hour, removing the scum the forms
from time to time.
-
Pass the sauce through a sieve into another pot, pressing out the juice from the
mirepoix. Bring to the boil and again cook over a very low heat, so that the sauce boils
only in one corner of the pot. Continue to remove the scum, adding the reserved broth in
small portions from time to time.
-
After about half an hour, the sauce is effectively finished. Madam Saint-Ange writes:
When the dépouillement is finished, the sauce must not show an atom of
fat. And all the heavy and cloying parts of the flour will have been eliminated,
and what remains communicates a light syrupy consistence to the sauce.
-
If more than a litre of sauce remains, reduce to a litre.
-
Add the madeira. At this point, Madame Saint-Ange wants the sauce passed through
another sieve. I can't see what good this does, since there are no lumps in it.